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Preseason Archery Challenge
Field Point & Broadhead Target
Tuning Challenge
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Print the Target Sheet: CLICK HERE TO PRINT
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Shoot a single arrow at each circle from the prescribed distance. Start at the 20yd target (or closer if you are new to this or shooting a broadhead for the first time). If your field points and broadheads are hitting in a similar spot advance to the 30 and 40 yard targets. If your point of impact is significantly different you may have some tuning work to do. See below for common problems and tuning tips.
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Post a picture of your target on Instagram or Facebook tagging @huntleague. (Feel free to tag the bow, arrow, release, sight, etc manufacturer from your setup.)
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Common Problems
- Timing Issues. This is related to the cam system on your compound bow. Your bow may have a solo cam, hybrid, or dual cam system but all compound bows use strings and cables to assist in the draw cycle. If you are shooting a dual cam bow it is critical that as you draw and release the cam system stays in sync. If the timing is off, your limbs are releasing energy at slightly different times creating a lot of potential issues. The best way to check timing is with a drawboard. If you do not have access to a drawboard have a buddy film in slow motion as you come to full draw making sure both cams are visible in the video. Both cams need to rollover at the same time and should come to rest in a similar position. Some bows have string stops that give you a visual indicator as a peg will often make contact with the string, cable, or limbs at a specific point. If your timing is off, it can often be corrected by adding or removing twists to the cables which in most cases requires the use of a bow press.
- Arrow Spine. Your arrow might be over or under spined (too stiff or not enough flex). Manufacturers give arrow spine recommendations on the box and their website. Most hunters depending on their draw length and draw weight will be shooting arrows with a 300-500 spine rating which is related to the stiffness of the arrow. The lower the number, the stiffer the spine. In recent years there has been a big emphasis on building heavy arrows with a high FOC (front of center). To achieve that, hunters are adding weight to the front of the arrow with heavier broadheads, weighted inserts and outserts. By adding so much weight up front it causes the arrow to flex more upon release as the string begins to transfer energy into the shaft. All arrows will flex but having the right spine is essential for consistent field point to broadhead accuracy. General rule of thumb is a spine that is too weak will hit left with a broadhead and a spine that is too stiff will generally hit right. Before you buy new arrows see if you can either add weight (+25-75gr broadhead or weighted outsert) to the front for an arrow that is too stiff. Reduce the draw weight of the bow for an arrow that is too weak. If that brings the impacts closer together you arrow spine might be the problem. If you were to error on one side or the other it is always best to error with a stiffer spine than one that is too week.
- Rest Tuning. If your center shot and D-Loop are set correctly, often times you can make micro adjustments to your rest to get your broadheads to group with your field points. Start with paper tuning but you can explore things like french, bare shaft, or walk back tuning. Moving your rest 1/16th can have a dramatic difference on the flight of your arrow. After moving your arrow rest, expect to make similar micro adjustments to your sight. General rule of thumb when broadhead tuning: vertical difference move the rest toward the field point. Horizontal difference move the rest towards the broadhead. (ie: Broadhead is hitting high and left of your field point. Start by lowering your rest to correct the vertical and then move the rest to the left to adjust the horizontal difference.)
- Switch your broadheads! Not all broadheads will work with your setup. It doesn’t matter what your friend uses or what marketing video you watched about a broadhead and its’ blood trails. If it doesn’t shoot well out of your setup it’s time to look for an alternative. You may really want to use a fixed blade broadhead but if it is coming down to the wire and you are struggling to get your broadheads to group with your field points you may need to consider using a mechanical broadhead. Mechanicals often have a similar profile to your field points and can be more forgiving. Think about the surface are of the blades on your fixed blade broadhead like the wings on a plane. As soon as you release the arrow, the shaft of the arrow begins to flex. As it flexes is the tip of your arrow now facing slightly up/down/left/right? The air running across the surface of the blades applies force which may cause your arrow to consistently hit left, right, up, or down. Your fletchings will somewhat help correct arrow flight but the problem typically occurs right as the arrow leaves the bow before the fletchings can really catch up and at that point the arrow is already off target.
There are many tuning videos available on YouTube about each of the subjects above. If you are struggling to find the help you need, feel free to reach out to [email protected] with your specific questions.
